Letter from Boston
Sushi-Loving Students
By MASAKO YAMADA
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おすし好きも学生たち
雅子さんの研究室には、昼休みになると、何人かで連れだってレストランに出かけるグループがあります。毎日、出る前に研究室の皆に声を掛けるのですが、週に一度のおすしランチは人気で、大勢集まります。ところが、唯一の日本人である雅子さんはほとんど参加したことがありません。その理由は…?
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I usually either bring my own lunch to school or I buy something simple in a
fast food restaurant or cafeteria. I don't mind eating by myself, and that
is what usually happens, since I don't like taking the time to make lengthy
dining plans.
It's not that I'm in a terrible rush to get back to my work — in fact, I
often follow a fast meal with a long coffee break — but I'm simply not
that interested in having a big social event in the middle of the day.
Such is not the case with some of the members in my department. I often
see groups of three or four students going out to a restaurant. There is a
core group of people in my lab that takes a "European style" lunch break every day. They often go off to lunch and don't return until about two
hours later. They are a friendly bunch and they usually ask, "Lunch, anyone?" before they leave so that anybody in the lab, including visitors,
can join them.
Once a week, the organizer says, "Sushi, anyone?" and I see a large
crowd of people assemble to go to a sushi restaurant. Usually, it's a
discount restaurant where each piece of sushi costs $1 (¥105). It is an
amazing sight to see so many people looking forward to their weekly sushi fix. Given its popularity, perhaps it's not too surprising to see packaged sushi being sold in the university cafeterias and local supermarkets. There
are three restaurants that serve sushi within a short walk from my lab and
at least 10 within a five-minute subway ride. I haven't tried more than a handful.
Ironically, I, the only Japanese in the group, rarely go on group sushi
expeditions. I like sushi but, considering the cost, I've never considered
it a weekly lunch option. But the real reason I avoid these trips is probably
because I don't want to accept the responsibility of being the "sushi expert" of the group.
I'm not an expert at all — I can hardly recognize most of the fish — but
this doesn't prevent others from thinking that I'm an expert. A question I
often get is, "Is this authentic?" This is a very difficult question,
indeed. It breaks my heart to see foreigners drench the rice of "nigiri"
with soy sauce, and I would call this an inauthentic move. I also wish
they'd pay a little more to go to a place that serves better sushi.
On the other hand, they would be very shocked to know that I usu
ally take a look at whatever leftovers are in the fridge to see what I can
put into a roll. This usually leads to weird combinations like cucumber,
shiso and canned tuna. This clearly isn't from the Edo Period, but I
wouldn't call it inauthentic, either.
I've made my improvisational "norimaki" many times for picnics, potluck
dinners and parties. It always seems to be a popular dish, and I've gotten
numerous requests for the recipe. I've even gone to a labmate's apartment
fully equipped with rice cooker and bamboo mat to teach him and his wife
how to make simple rolls. I never use raw fish, since it's expensive and
perishable, but people seem very impressed and grateful nevertheless.
Supermarkets and sushi restaurants get away with charging an arm and a leg for rolls that only contain imitation crab, cucumber or egg fillings. I
think this is because people believe it's expensive and difficult to make. I
always try to convince people that that kind of sushi is dirt cheap, and
as easy to make as sandwiches.
In my childhood, my peers did not find seaweed very appetizing, much less
raw fish. Therefore, it's somewhat amusing for me to see so many of my friends
now clamoring for more. I suppose one crucial factor is that most of my
labmates are from foreign countries — countries that don't find ingredients
such as pig intestines or frogs' legs disgusting.
However, Americans also seem to be much more open to different foods. True,
there are still many places where meat and potatoes rule, but sushi might
become the pizza of 21st century America. You see, not too long ago, this now ubiquitous takeout/delivery staple was considered an "ethnic" food.
Shukan ST: Jan. 28, 2000
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