Paris Watch

No Fleas, Some Sashimi At Paris Open-Air Markets

By KIKI YOSHIDA

I do my daily shopping at supermarkets, but sometimes I enjoy going to open-air markets. In Paris, we have a great number of these markets open every day. There are both permanent open-air markets and temporary ones.

There's one market near my place which I frequent. It is held on Tuesdays and Fridays. The market in the Bastille, held on Thursdays and Sundays, is one of my favorites as well.

When I look around at what is available at the market, I realize that France is rich in seasonal foods. If you go, here are some tips to make your visit enjoyable.

First of all, you can't pay with your credit card, so prepare coins before leaving. Take a big bag with you to avoid accumulating many small plastic bags during your shopping. It's convenient if you have one.

Try to talk to the merchants. They will give you good advice on how to prepare the food. Most fishmongers know that Japanese love fish. You can start a conversation about Japanese cuisine; sashimi, for example. Since Japanese food is gaining popularity in France, sashimi is a well-known word. I didn't know this until one of my Japanese friends taught me that we could ask a fishmonger to select fish for sashimi.

I never buy fish for sashimi in a supermarket because I don't know how fresh it is. That's one of the advantages of visiting a market. Sashimi a la maison (sashimi at home), in Paris!

While you browse the stalls, don't forget to check your wallet. You never know when someone is waiting for a chance to pick your pocket!

Pay a visit to flea markets, too. Flea markets originated from the sales of second-hand goods by French tradesmen in the 19th century. The term "flea market" was derived from the French "marche aux puces," (market of fleas) which refers to the parasites that were often found in the garments bought at these markets.

Marche de la Porte de Clignancourt is the largest and most overwhelming of all Paris flea markets. However, this is where you've got to be the most careful of pickpockets.

Every day there are between 2,500 and 3,500 stalls and shops, ranging from antiques to modern gadgets. You can find vintage clothes, as well as beautiful furniture.

There are specialized markets as well. Visit Ile de la Cite for flower (daily) and bird markets (Sundays).

Or, if you are a stamp collector, you've got to hurry to marche aux timbres at Rond Point Clemenceau, 75008, on Sundays. Even if you aren't interested in stamps, it is quite a sight to see all the old and rare ones.

In all of these markets, unless you are encouraged to do so, you should not touch the merchandise.

There are also special organic markets. These markets sell organically grown fruits and vegetables, homemade bread, farm-raised chicken, wine and coffee, etc.

With time, more and more people are starting to buy organic food. Although France's organic industry lags behind the rest of the EU, there has been an increase in demand for organic produce.

In France, organic food is called simply "bio." Due to the recent panic caused by contaminated beef, bio-food has gotten a lot of attention. People prefer to pay more money for safer food. As we know well enough, there's no price for our health. But still, the high price of bio is an obstacle for a majority of people.

Currently, bio costs 20-100 percent more than traditional food, depending on the product. Ordinary lettuce, for example, costs about 2.30F (¥40) while the organic version costs 7.80F (¥133).

The most famous organic market is held along Boulevard Raspail. Actors and musicians who live in the neighborhood are regular customers. You might even pass someone famous on the street.

It's said that it's better to go early in the morning to the market to get the best food. That's certainly true. However, it's also equally interesting to visit a market around two or three o'clock when they start closing. Many merchants want to sell all of their merchandise, especially those who sell fresh products.

On market days, the cafｿ along the street is crowded with visitors as well as merchants. A cup of strong espresso warms you up and rouses you to go out for more browsing. You need it especially on a freezing winter morning. I bet you'll feel very Parisian in this energetic atmosphere!

Shukan ST: Feb. 2, 2001

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