Essay

On the Trans-Siberian

By Kip Cates

What's the longest train ride you've ever taken? Five hours? Ten hours? My longest train ride was one week! That was the time my wife and I rode the Trans-Siberian Railway back in the 1980s. The Trans-Siberian is the longest railway in the world. It starts in Moscow, travels across Russia and ends in Vladivostok. The entire journey takes seven days.

Before boarding the train, I was worried. I was brought up during the Cold War and was taught that Russia was "the enemy" and that Russians were "evil." I was also worried about boredom. I kept thinking, "What will I do for seven days on a train?" Finally, I went to a bookstore and bought seven English books. I figured if I read one a day, I'd have enough for the trip.

The first three carriages of the Trans-Siberian were reserved for foreigners. The rest were for Russians. The foreign travelers were an interesting group: Europeans on holiday, Japanese students, an American from Princeton University. Once we were all on board, the train set off.

Just as I was about to start my first book, there was a knock on our door. It was a Russian sailor. "Konnichi wa!" he said. "I heard there were Japanese here. I often sail to Japan. I have two girlfriends in Yokohama!" We quickly began a lively conversation using Japanese, English and Russian.

Soon, there was another knock. A second Russian appeared. Then another. Then another! Before we knew it, we had dozens of Russian visitors each day -- students, soldiers, housewives, businessmen -- all eager to meet foreign people, practice their English and make friends.

During the trip, interesting things happened, so time passed quickly. One day, a Russian girl came to our carriage. "Does anyone play chess?" she asked. "I do," said the American. It was a very unfair match -- a 10-year-old Russian girl against an American graduate student. They played five games. The Russian girl won each time!

Another day, the train staff held a contest for the cleanest carriage. We spent all day washing windows and cleaning floors. However, all the prizes went to the Russians, who were much better cleaners!

One day, our Russian friend Sergei whispered, "Come to my carriage at 7 p.m. tonight. Tell no one. It's top secret!" "What's going on?" we wondered. We soon found out. Alcohol was banned on the Trans-Siberian but Sergei had organized a secret vodka party and invited us along!

After seven days and 9,000 kilometers, we arrived at the Pacific Ocean and took a boat to Japan. Instead of being bored, I'd spent the whole trip meeting Russians, playing chess, attending parties, drinking vodka and making friends. By the end of the journey, I hadn't read a single book!

Shukan ST: MAY 11, 2012

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