Letter from Boston

Sushi-Loving Students

By MASAKO YAMADA

I usually either bring my own lunch to school or I buy something simple in a fast food restaurant or cafeteria. I don't mind eating by myself, and that is what usually happens, since I don't like taking the time to make lengthy dining plans.

It's not that I'm in a terrible rush to get back to my work — in fact, I often follow a fast meal with a long coffee break — but I'm simply not that interested in having a big social event in the middle of the day.

Such is not the case with some of the members in my department. I often see groups of three or four students going out to a restaurant. There is a core group of people in my lab that takes a "European style" lunch break every day. They often go off to lunch and don't return until about two hours later. They are a friendly bunch and they usually ask, "Lunch, anyone?" before they leave so that anybody in the lab, including visitors, can join them.

Once a week, the organizer says, "Sushi, anyone?" and I see a large crowd of people assemble to go to a sushi restaurant. Usually, it's a discount restaurant where each piece of sushi costs $1 (¥105). It is an amazing sight to see so many people looking forward to their weekly sushi fix. Given its popularity, perhaps it's not too surprising to see packaged sushi being sold in the university cafeterias and local supermarkets. There are three restaurants that serve sushi within a short walk from my lab and at least 10 within a five-minute subway ride. I haven't tried more than a handful.

Ironically, I, the only Japanese in the group, rarely go on group sushi expeditions. I like sushi but, considering the cost, I've never considered it a weekly lunch option. But the real reason I avoid these trips is probably because I don't want to accept the responsibility of being the "sushi expert" of the group.

I'm not an expert at all — I can hardly recognize most of the fish — but this doesn't prevent others from thinking that I'm an expert. A question I often get is, "Is this authentic?" This is a very difficult question, indeed. It breaks my heart to see foreigners drench the rice of "nigiri" with soy sauce, and I would call this an inauthentic move. I also wish they'd pay a little more to go to a place that serves better sushi.

On the other hand, they would be very shocked to know that I usu ally take a look at whatever leftovers are in the fridge to see what I can put into a roll. This usually leads to weird combinations like cucumber, shiso and canned tuna. This clearly isn't from the Edo Period, but I wouldn't call it inauthentic, either.

I've made my improvisational "norimaki" many times for picnics, potluck dinners and parties. It always seems to be a popular dish, and I've gotten numerous requests for the recipe. I've even gone to a labmate's apartment fully equipped with rice cooker and bamboo mat to teach him and his wife how to make simple rolls. I never use raw fish, since it's expensive and perishable, but people seem very impressed and grateful nevertheless.

Supermarkets and sushi restaurants get away with charging an arm and a leg for rolls that only contain imitation crab, cucumber or egg fillings. I think this is because people believe it's expensive and difficult to make. I always try to convince people that that kind of sushi is dirt cheap, and as easy to make as sandwiches.

In my childhood, my peers did not find seaweed very appetizing, much less raw fish. Therefore, it's somewhat amusing for me to see so many of my friends now clamoring for more. I suppose one crucial factor is that most of my labmates are from foreign countries — countries that don't find ingredients such as pig intestines or frogs' legs disgusting.

However, Americans also seem to be much more open to different foods. True, there are still many places where meat and potatoes rule, but sushi might become the pizza of 21st century America. You see, not too long ago, this now ubiquitous takeout/delivery staple was considered an "ethnic" food.

Shukan ST: Jan. 28, 2000

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