Paris Watch Good Cafes Make You Feel At Home in Paris By KIKI YOSHIDA	フレームで見る  英文をプリントする  脚注をプリントする
パリのカフェでくつろぐ 道路沿いのテラスに椅子を並べ、カフェオレとクロワッサンの朝食をとるパリジャン ー カフェは食事と憩いの場として、パリの街の必需品です。パリの人たちのほとんどが、行きつけのカフェを持っているといいます。さて、そんなパリのカフェの魅力とは ー？

Meet me at the same time at the same cafe. I'll be there.

Like most Parisians, I have my regular cafe that I go to every day. If I don't go there, I feel something is missing. Because the cafe is one of the reasons why I am here in Paris. Sitting down in a neat chair and sipping hot beverages with deep aromas is my favorite time of the day.

The cafe is a part of their culture that the French are proud of. In the early 1900s, it was originally a place that sold coal (It was called "bougnat" in French). It used to sell regional wines as well and eventually started serving light meals. That was the kind of place people needed then.

But as times changed, it had to diversify. Electricity and gas replaced coal as fuel. And beer and other drinks arrived. Different styles of cafes developed, serving not only wine but also various kinds of beer, cocktails and so on.

"The times have changed," said the barman. "There used to be more cafes in Paris. But they've changed into boutiques and nightclubs. The typical cafe like mine is disappearing. It's a pity, but then again, that's life. Some years ago I earned a lot at lunch times selling sandwiches and "croque-monsieur (toasted sandwiches with ham and cheese)." Unfortunately those days are over. Look around. Sandwich stands and fast-food stores are on every corner!"

He's right. Even I can see the financial difficulties of those cafes. The only solution is to remodel completely. That's how other cafes have been surviving. If not, they have to shut down. It's sad to see those old cafes disappear one after another.

Cafes have started hiring security staff for when they are open at night. A few years ago, there was no such tendency except at the classy nightclubs. The reason is that they have had so much trouble with rowdy customers.

The other night I was at a cafe with a friend waiting for my boyfriend. Suddenly I saw him calling me at the door. Not knowing what was going on, I went to the door. "Let's get out of here," he said with a very upset look. I went back for my friend at the table and we left. "Even though I explained my girlfriend was waiting for me inside, security staff wouldn't let me in!" he said. That cafe was just like a normal cafe a few years ago. Doors used to be open to everybody. And now, you can't even enter if you are a man and alone.

Let me roughly classify cafes into two categories.

The cafes of the first category are the ones everyone knows, such as "Cafe de la Paix," "Fouquet's," "Les Deux Magots" and so on. Those world-famous cafes are definitely of that category. They are always popular among tourists. I wasn't an exception, either.

I remember visiting some famous cafes that I had checked in the guidebook the day before. It's like an honor to go to one of these cafes and have a cup of coffee! There's always a reason to be the best. When you enter the cafe, you'll be fascinated with the elegant interior decoration that radiates its history. And the staff are always neat and polite. I bet you'll be able to spend a dreamlike time.

All the others can be placed in the second category. I know it's a crude way to categorize, but let me continue my explanation.

Have you got any ideas what makes the difference? Customers. Simple as that. If you go to the typical local bar, almost 100 percent of the customers are those who live in the neighborhood. They're like a big family so that you might feel isolated at first. However, once you get to know them well, you also feel you're part of the family. But they are too close to each other, you see. They spend many hours there, drinking alcohol so that we have to see them heavily intoxicated.

I know a man who is intelligent and very nice when he is normal. But he turns into a totally different person after drinking alcohol. He becomes like a zombie. The next day he comes to the same bar and starts talking about politics and other sophisticated topics as if nothing had happened the night before. Like attracts like. So, a cafe like this always attracts the same kind of people: a whole bunch of Dr. Jekylls and Mr. Hydes. Not all cafes are like this, though. Each cafe has its own color. It's your choice.

I've chosen mine. Why did it become my regular cafe? I can't give a particular good reason. I just felt good about everything at this place, I guess. The waiters and waitresses are kind as well. We get to know each other a little more each day. So, it's like seeing a friend when you go there. There's an old lady I see almost every day at the same time. We've never exchanged a word so far, but we know each other. I know many other people like her. We don't talk but we are acquaintances. It's nice, really. This cafe plays a great role in my daily life. Just knowing that there's a place for me makes me feel so warm and secure inside.

Every time I finish this article, I order "un grand cafe creme" to celebrate. It has became a sort of personal ritual. And believe me, it tastes better than usual!

Shukan ST: Sept. 3, 1999

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