The Marais (the 3rd and 4th wards of Paris) is just across the Seine, to the north of the Ile de la Cite and the Ile Saint Louis. It extends eastward up to the Bastille.

Marais literally means "marsh," which it was, a long time ago. It is said that culture began to develop here when convents were constructed in the 13th century. The vicinity became part of Paris when Charles V extended the city wall to the region.

In Marias, construction of the square known as the Place Royale, now called the Place des Vosges, was started by Henry IV and completed in 1612. After completion, the Marais became a very stylish area. The square acquired its present name in 1799, when the Department of the Vosges first paid taxes to the central government to support the military.

Place des Vosges is the oldest square in France. Its shape is symmetrical and is surrounded by grand buildings. A stone arcade goes around the entire square. Many restaurants and art galleries now stand here. Although the rent is high, there are private residences as well. Jack Lang, the Minister of Education, is one of the area's famous inhabitants.

I always find this square very peaceful. On the benches, elderly women watch children play, young couples chat and people quietly read books and newspapers. In summer, half-naked young men lie down on the grass by the fountains. These are typical Vosges scenes.

Important museums are also located in this neighborhood. Maison Victor de Hugo, where the famous writer of the same name once lived, is now a museum dedicated to his life and work.

If you are interested in the history of Paris, Musee Carnavel is where you should visit. It has amazing collections that illustrate developments of the capital in successive periods.

For art lovers, Musee National Picasso is waiting to satisfy you. In this 17th-century building, 251 paintings, 160 sculptures and pottery all by Picasso are on display.

In recent years the Marais has been restored to become one of Paris' most eclectic areas. Many of the structures and narrow streets are left unchanged and it has retained most of its pre-Revolution architecture. I didn't know much about French history before coming to France, however, by seeing these buildings I could get a better feel for French history.

Apart from being a historical district, it has two other distinguishing characteristics. One, it is traditionally Jewish. Two, it is a predominantly gay area.

Jews have been living in this neighborhood since the 13th century. Jewish restaurants and delicatessens line the main street. If you come here, I strongly recommend trying the falafel (deep-fried bean paste) sandwich.

Due to the large Jewish population, you can easily get kosher food. Kosher food meets all the requirements of the dietary laws that are specified in the five books of Moses and rabbinical law. Not only are certain animals unacceptable to eat, but also these animals must be slaughtered in accordance with specific rituals.

A few months ago, McDonald's abandoned a plan to open a new branch in this area. They didn't have any other choice. Some locals strongly opposed the plan, because they believed that McDonald's didn't fit the area's historical atmosphere. In the end, the fast-food chain pulled out of the plan, citing that they wouldn't be able to prepare kosher meat for Jewish customers.

Since the 1980s, gays have frequented this area as well. Trendy bars and shops were built one after another. From the window of my former apartment, I could see one of the most popular gay bars, where techno music was always played.

On Sundays, the street rue des Francs Bourgeois teems with people, mostly tourists. With its hip boutiques you will never get bored walking on this street. Many of the boutiques are owned by artists and you can see the original clothes and accessories that they have designed.

A cluster of antique dealers is situated in the southern St. Paul area. While new bars and boutiques endlessly appear, antique shops are always one of the great attractions of the Marais. To me, all of this is the perfect mixture of old and new, and that makes the Marais shine.

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