Letter from Boston
Mozzarella Adventures
By MASAKO YAMADA
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モッツァレラチーズ作り
食にはちょっとうるさい雅子さん。今回は、インターネットを駆使して料理本や材料を取り寄せ、モッツァレラチーズ作りに挑戦しました。ピザを作るのに使うモッツァレラチーズは店で売っていますが、手作りのものはとても高価です。本場イタリアのチーズ職人が作るようなチーズの味を再現することはできたのでしょうか?
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It all started at a party at my friend's house. I was shuffling through his
cookbooks and I found one that I liked very much. It explained how to make
items that you would usually buy at the store, in your own kitchen.
It had instructions on how to make fancy candies, ice cream, smoked
fish, pickles, preserves and different kinds of cheeses. I asked him where
he had gotten the book, and he told me that he had found it at a used book
store.
I soon found out that the book was out of print. I tried checking some
well-known Internet bookstores to see whether they had the book in stock,
but apparently these companies don't carry out-of-print books. Many of the
large companies can do custom book searches for you by contacting
secondhand bookstores, but this is often expensive. At the very least, it
can take a long time.
At the suggestion of my (more computer savvy) boyfriend, I tried
checking out some smaller Internet stores to see whether any of them carried
the book. Sure enough, I found a local company that handles only
cookbooks, and they had a new copy of the book in stock. They had another book
by the same authors, so I decided to buy that one too.
I clicked on the order form and entered my credit card number. I was
finished with my purchase in minutes. Not only were the books being sold
far below retail price, the package arrived at my home in two or three
days!! The company itself was quite small, but the selection and service
were worthy of the big leagues. Needless to say, I was very happy with my
purchase (including the impulse buy).
As I flipped through the pages, I decided that I wanted to make some
homemade mozzarella cheese. This is a gourmet item that most cooks do not
make at home, and I thought I could impress my friends by making some.
Handmade mozzarella is often ridiculously expensive in stores, and there is
the impression that only old Italian craftsmen can learn how to make it.
The directions looked simple enough for me to try. The only problem was that
the recipe called for rennet. The three local supermarkets that I visited
did not carry any. When I asked a saleswoman at one of them, "Do you have
rennet?" she answered, "Is that used to make soap?" Again, I decided to
turn to the Internet.
Fortunately, I found my treasure at the Web site of a small, local cheese
supply company. Not only did they have rennet, they had three different
kinds (I chose the vegetarian kind). They even had a kit with all the
ingredients necessary to make mozzarella cheese.
The prices were very reasonable. I filled out their order form and, two
or three days later, I had enough rennet to process 20 gallons of milk for
mozzarella. I made another impulse purchase while checking out the Web site:
enough tartaric acid to make a few years' supply of mascarpone cheese.
The new cookbook and rennet supply in tow, I started making my first batch of mozzarella. Although the recipe pamphlet said that it would only take me
30 minutes, after nearly an hour the cheese still did not have the wonderful
stretchy
quality that mozzarella usually has. It looked and felt a lot more like
cottage cheese. I like cottage cheese, but I've made it many times before
without any special ingredients and I was expecting more.
I felt a bit embarrassed, since I couldn't seem to make the cheese look
like the sample in the catalog that (supposedly) a 3-year-old made. It was
especially disappointing considering that my boyfriend and I had bought a lot
of pizza ingredients so that we could make pizza using my fresh mozzarella
cheese. We ended up making cottage cheese pizza instead.
It was quite yummy, but not what I'd dreamed of when I started shopping
on the Internet. I think that now I should try searching for a different
method of making mozzarella. I hope it won't involve any more impulse
purchases.
Shukan ST: March 31, 2000
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